Minerva Fellows Spotlight: Andrew in Uruguay
Flipside: Being on the Outside
Andrew Scaplen
Issue date: 3/4/10 Section: Limelight on U
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Most of the time I get a comment here or there, as the Uruguayan people love to talk and have no reservations about speaking their mind. Usually from the girls the comments are something good. "Ay, que divino! Mira a ese rubio." (Literally, "How divine! Look at that blond boy.") I may even get a whistle but never take it too seriously. Normally from the guys it's a different story. A look of disgust. An off-the-cuff remark. "Que pelotudo, boludo, pajero feo.." (Various derogatory slang mostly referring to one's genitals). But it doesn't bother me. They probably assume that I don't know what they are saying and I play dumb and continue my jog unaffected.
In the States, I have always felt somewhat comfortable in the middle and until my trip, I slipped under the radar, carrying on about my business without breaking the concentration of those around me. Always one of a fairly homogenous group, for good or for bad. But here in Uruguay, I am considered an outsider and this has brought much scrutiny.
But today is different. I continue along the coast, running past Playa Ramirez and noticing the change in wind direction; the first sign telling me it is time to turn around. As I come to Parque Rodo and tap the 4.5-kilometer marker and turn around, I watch the eyes take notice of my presence from all around. My face is already flushed from my run so luckily my blushing embarrassment is undetected.
Just then, a little kid and his sister start running with me. This may seem strange, but it's actually happened a few times before. I continue to run, give them a smile and let them tag along. I notice that the boy is running in some old flip flops and after a minute or so, I decide to ask him, "That can't be too comfortable, running in those flip flops, eh?"
Boom, game over, mind blown. The kid stops dead in his tracks and just stares as I continue on looking back, giving him a chuckle as I get back to my run. I am pretty sure that it wasn't his fatigue that made him stop so abruptly but rather the complete contrast of information he just received with what his preconceived notion of "the outsider" was that he was mocking and running next to. "But… he just spoke to me in Spanish?"
Since being down in Uruguay, I have surprised a lot of people who stop and decide to learn a little bit more about "the outsider" rather than those who just pass judgment and move on. Although I am tired of the looks, the stares, the comments, I have to take them in stride and say to myself, "If only they knew."
If only they knew how much I know about their small but amazing country. I am sure I would surprise them just as I stupefied that little boy running along the rambla. I am not just some tourist, although I may look more like a tourist than a Uruguayan. Actually, I know a good deal about Uruguay, arguably, more than some Uruguayans.
Do they know that I can name all 19 departments of Uruguay and that I have traveled to over half of them? Or how I know the different cultural peculiarities from Uruguay's only city and capital, Montevideo, to the relaxed, mellowed-out estancias of the interior, to the coast, to the people on the Brazilian frontier, confusing me even further with their Portuñol. That I have many Uruguayan friends and I know their families, their thoughts, their lifestyles. That Sundays are spent strictly with family and that everything is closed except for two big street markets. That mate (pronounced mä-?t?) is more of a lifestyle than a tea drink.
Do they know I know that the president-elect used to be imprisoned and tortured during the military dictatorship for his role as a leader of the Tupamaro Guerilla movement, notorious for kidnapping and killing political leaders? That the main problem Uruguay faces is a smart young generation that chooses to move abroad because of the lack of infrastructure and reinvestment to develop their own industries here. The Uruguayan people live life in the moment rather than saving for the future. Delayed gratification, a concept so engrained in our culture, is something foreign and at times incomprehensible to these people and this is reflected in their undeveloped domestic industries.
Do they know that the whole reason for me being here is to help them through my work with Flor de Ceibo, an initiative developed by La Universidad de la Republica, the public (and free might I add) university in Montevideo. That I am working with all these little green and white computers that can be seen on the bus, in the plazas, on the beach, and most importantly in the schools. That I have worked inside numerous schools. I have seen the stark contrasts between rural, urban, critical-context and private schools, as well as the differences in schools in a variety of cities and towns.
That I can see on one hand, a country that is so proud of their opportunity to improve education, but on the other hand, the palpable hesitation to embrace this swift and comprehensive shift towards technology. Many are unwilling and afraid to change their lifestyle. Maybe because it will turn their quiet, simple, friendly, and unique country into something more cold, but technologically advanced, more consumption-driven like the U.S.
Do they know that I spend almost all of my free time working in an orphanage for young girls in Ciudad Vieja? That I have seen first hand the effects of pasta base, a derivative of cocaine similar to crack, that is cheap and all too effective. That I see the stark contrast between the poor community in Ciudad Vieja and the wealthy suburbs of Pocitos and Carrasco. For many, it is a reality of drugs, prostitution, dysfunctional families, homeless people, kids peddling used goods and begging on the streets. That I can see this ruin the lives of the beautiful, funny and intelligent girls I care for day in and day out.
And the fact is, they don't know these things about me, but that's fine, and if I am given the opportunity to speak, I will be happy to do so. I love speaking in Spanish and fully embrace the "chatty-Cathy" nature of the Uruguayans who can talk passionately for hours over seemingly meaningless topics. But maybe I should take this extra attention, swallow my embarrassment and shyness and use it towards my advantage to show that I am not that different and to break many of the stereotypes people here have of "Estado Unidenses" (a person from the United States) which they pick up from our pop-culture influence in T.V., music and movies.
In many ways I have a lot of the same characteristics as the Uruguayans and I would love to express my respect and envy of their cultural values. I love that they are very social people, that they don't get embarrassed easily, that they are opportunists and able to find some creative niche in society to get by. I love telling them how much my perspective has changed since my arrival. For starters, I have a better understanding of how a foreigner feels living in another country and I will try to be more mindful and sympathetic to that situation, now seeing what it is like from the other side. More so, my experience has enabled my outlook on life and what is truly valuable to me come into focus. A conversation, a meal with friends and family, relaxing, living life, not just being caught up in the newest fashion, appliance, or technology, but being happy with what you have, not asking for much, making the best out of it, with a smile on your face. And if that is all I take away from this experience, it will surely have been worth it.
Editor's Note-to learn more about Andrew's work in Urugauy, check out his blog at http://ublog.union.edu/scaplena.
Viewing Comments 1 - 1 of 1
Neal and Laura Carbis
posted 5/22/10 @ 1:08 PM EST
Hi Andrew:
Just a few words to let you know we have read your article and thoroughly enjoyed reading about your experiences and observations during your stay in Uruguay. (Continued…)
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